Each one has its pros and cons, and different photographers will find some lenses better than others for the work they do. On balance, as a budget prime lens – and even compared to much more expensive options – there’s a good reason why the Samyang is so popular for nighttime photography today. Deborah often uses this technique. Pete manually focused the camera on the closest trees in the foreground. I doubt I’ll every move from a DX to a FX. If you’ve set the camera’s Noise Reduction feature, an additional 5-10 seconds may be need to be added to the interval before the camera will be ready to take another shot.”. “The subject will often determine if I pursue star trails or pinpoints of light,” explains Deborah. Best Nikon Lens for Astrophotography - Buyer's Guide - Camera … If nighttime photography is your primary goal, this lens shouldn’t be your top choice. Anything more expensive than that is probably outside my budget. Their 16mm f/2.0 lens, for example, is one of the most popular nighttime photography lenses available for DX cameras. The clouds can add an interesting aspect to night photography when they’re sparsely dotting the sky, allowing the stars to peek through. As the widest-aperture zoom lens available for DX cameras, it’s no surprise that the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 made this list. For one, this lens has noticeable coma – more than the Nikon 14mm-24mm f/2.8 or the Samyang 14mm f/2.8. In other words, you may be shooting at ISO 1600 with your DX camera, but the noise levels will be roughly equivalent to ISO 3600 on an FX sensor. Again, for more information, read the earlier article on nighttime photography. Combined with an entry-level DSLR like the Nikon D3400, this is one of the most affordable ways to get good nighttime photos. I am getting back into photograpy after 35 years beside point and shoot and smart phone pictures. You’ve successfully subscribed to Nikon’s Learn & Explore newsletter. For nighttime photography with a DX camera, though, it ranks near the top. This is night photography, so light is pretty limited. However, if you own an 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6, you can still get star photos – they’ll just be grainier than you may want. However, if you’re looking to buy a lens specifically for star photography, there are better options on the market. (One such program is Quicktime Pro, however there are also free software programs available that you can use too.) Want to know how the Nikon D7100 stands up to the challenge of night photography? I am deciding on the Tokinas as I can also add a filter to the front thread for landscapes. ), and avoid light polluted areas (big cities or towns). The problem with these lenses is simply a lack of light. Plus, the 14-24mm f/2.8 is heavy and expensive (though decent on the used market), deterring many potential buyers. (For example, I don’t cover any lenses longer than 35mm, but some people like using longer focal lengths to stitch nighttime panoramas.) Note: Before reading this article, in order to understand the “ISO score” and “full-frame equivalent ISO score” rankings, you’ll want to read my earlier article, which provides an explanation of what makes a good night photography lens. Thanks! The D5600’s vari-angle monitor ensures comfortable live view photography, whatever position you hold the camera in — up high, down low, or turning the monitor toward yourself for a self-portrait. It also offers frequent discounts and savings. A lot of manufacturers make 17-55mm f/2.8 lenses for Nikon (or 16-50mm, 17-50mm, 18-50mm, and so on). As our review shows, the Tokina 16-28mm is a hidden gem. High Dynamic Range (HDR): One technique is to take multiple shots, bracketing or varying the actual exposure time, and merge them as HDR which you can composite with the final image of the properly exposed sky. Speedlights with red and yellow gels manually "popped" to paint light onto foreground. If you’re using a very wide-angle lens, slower shutter speeds may not be that noticeable, however you will see the streaking in images that are shot with a normal to telephoto lens. In this article, I will cover everything you need to know about menu settings for the Nikon D5600, including a specific recommendation for every important setting. Like the Nikon, this Samyang has noticeable levels of flare, although it also has noticeably more coma. The price fluctuates because the brand Samyang goes by several different names: Samyang, Rokinon, Bower, and so on. On top of that, the 16mm f/2.0 is a solid value at $420. I’m shooting a Nikon D750. Still, with DX cameras, you have to relax your standards somewhat. Forums > Camera Forum > Nikon Cameras > Log in or Sign up. PL provides various digital photography news, reviews, articles, tips, tutorials and guides to photographers of all levels, By Spencer Cox 74 CommentsLast Updated On December 11, 2019. The differences aren’t massive, but they are visible. Exposure starting point: Nikon’s Steve Heiner does quite a bit of time-lapse moviemaking—of varied subjects—including the stars traversing across the night sky. Z6 II vs Z7 II – which one is better for enthusiast, ISO score (widest angle, widest aperture): ISO 3576, Depth of field (widest angle, widest aperture): 1.16 meters to infinity, ISO score (widest angle, widest aperture): ISO 3828, Depth of field (widest angle, widest aperture): 1.33 meters to infinity, ISO score (widest angle, widest aperture): ISO 4080, Depth of field (widest angle, widest aperture): 1.52 meters to infinity, ISO score (widest angle, widest aperture): ISO 6136, Depth of field (widest angle, widest aperture): 3.41 meters to infinity, Depth of field (widest aperture): 0.85 meters to infinity, Depth of field (widest aperture): 1.84 meters to infinity, Depth of field (widest aperture): 1.38 meters to infinity, Depth of field (widest aperture): 1.16 meters to infinity, Depth of field (widest aperture): 1.58 meters to infinity, Depth of field (widest aperture): 3.75 meters to infinity, Depth of field (widest aperture): 4.72 meters to infinity, Depth of field (widest aperture): 6.8 meters to infinity, Depth of field (widest aperture): 5.4 meters to infinity, Depth of field (widest aperture): 14.45 meters to infinity, Depth of field (widest aperture): 11.48 meters to infinity, Full-frame equivalent ISO score (widest aperture): ISO 6163, Depth of field (widest aperture): 3.41 meters to infinity, Full-frame equivalent ISO score (widest aperture): ISO 8640, Depth of field (widest aperture): 0.89 feet to infinity, Full-frame equivalent ISO score (widest angle, widest aperture): ISO 9508, Depth of field (widest angle, widest aperture): 1.07 meters to infinity, Full-frame equivalent ISO score (widest angle, widest aperture): ISO 5128, Depth of field (widest angle, widest aperture): 2.37 meters to infinity, Full-frame equivalent ISO score (widest angle, widest aperture): ISO 5689, Depth of field (widest angle, widest aperture): 5.2 meters to infinity, Full-frame equivalent ISO score (widest angle, widest aperture): ISO 14,303, Depth of field (widest angle, widest aperture): 2.56 meters to infinity, Full-frame equivalent ISO score (widest angle, widest aperture): ISO 18,482, Depth of field (widest angle, widest aperture): 2.28 meters to infinity. “On dark nights, I only light paint foreground elements when it makes artistic sense,” she says, noting that she tries to make the foreground look as natural as possible in most cases. I can possibly invest in a new inexpensive lens, if needed. Not bad. For time-lapse photography of the stars in the night sky, use an aperture of about f/5.6 if the moon is full, f/2.8 if the moon is not full. Recently, I bought myself a Nikon D3500 and decided to give astrophotography a try. The Nikon 20mm f/1.8 is another solid nighttime lens – in fact, by the light it allows, this one is almost a stop better than the 14-24mm f/2.8 or 15-30mm f/2.8 options (though it doesn’t have the same depth of field). For most photographers (unless you already own the Nikon), it’s the better choice. Do note that this works by way of dark frame subtraction, which effectively doubles the exposure time. If you’re using a wide-angle lens and the moon is a small element, it likely won’t cause the overall image to suffer if the moon is blown out with no visible details. This is a relatively new lens, as well as the one with the best ISO score on this list (which, as mentioned in our earlier article, is a measure of the noise you’ll get in a nighttime photo without blurry stars). The Sigma, though, doesn’t just hold its own – it’s actually a bit sharper than the Nikon version. Once you’re done shooting a series of images with the interval timer, you combine the images using software to create a movie file that shows the individual images in motion. I have a 10-24 dx lens. A telescope mount moves the camera/telescope as the earth rotates. The wide angle and bright aperture mean that this lens will give you excellent depth of field at night. Multimedia artists call this the “Ken Burns Effect.”. Nevertheless, you still can capture nighttime photos successfully with a DX camera. That means that wide-angle lenses (which let you use longer shutter speeds without visible star movement) have priority. Everglades National Park. We also reviewed the Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 VC. However, if you try to include anything in your foreground, it will simply be out of focus. With the 11-20mm, you’ll get a longer zoom range at exactly the same price, and both lenses perform well optically. For the price the Canon 6D and the Nikon D600 are the best cameras for night photography hands down, you can’t go wrong with either. That’s significantly wider than 14mm, meaning that you can capture more of the Milky Way in a single shot, as well as get a somewhat larger depth of field. If your only goal is nighttime photography, and price is a factor, the Samyang is a wonderful value. night photography settings nikon d5000, nikon d5000 dslr night photography, nikon d5000 len for taking pictures at night, nikon d5000 night photography, nikon d5000 pictures at night, nikon d5200 night photography. Shoot at f/2.8 and 14mm, and you’ll be able to get some very interesting shots. The clouds can add an interesting aspect to night photography when theyre sparsely dotting the sky allowing the stars to peek through. By clicking Sign Up, you are opting to receive educational and promotional emails from Nikon Inc. You can update your preferences or unsubscribe any time. Taking pictures of galaxies requires a tracking telescope because the earth moves during the long exposure time. I did some research and created a step by step guide. Or, for higher optical performance, the Irix 15mm f/2.4 or Samyang 14mm f/2.4 could be the better choice. Photographing the Night Sky using Time Lapse, Nikon Authorized Dealers - Sport Optics (PDF). If you’re going out to specifically shoot the moon, research the phases of the moon, so you know what time the moon will be rising and setting each evening so you know when to plan your shoot. The 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 lenses will give you a taste of astrophotography, which makes it easy to tell if this is something you want to continue doing. However, if you want to take pictures during the day or with autofocus, the Sigma should be your choice instead (and, other than the coma issue, is a better lens optically). Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8E VR (as well as the older version and all third-party variants), 1.14. The 2 mentioned lens are great. I set up the driftwood and stones in the foreground to add interest to the shot as the beach was pretty uninteresting without them. Nighttime photography is something that a lot of photographers enjoy; I certainly do, along with countless others. Remember to use a shutter speed of about 1/15 second or faster since the moon actually moves pretty fast across the sky. In fact, Nikon’s 24mm f/1.8 is one of their all-around best prime lenses for landscape photography, given its light weight and great performance. It’s an inexpensive lens as lenses go, but I wish Nikon had charged a bit more and designed it better. It also has slightly less vignetting than the Samyang 14mm f/2.8. Although the Nikon has a bit more depth of field, the two are so close that you’ll barely notice a difference. The Irix is having better performance in that aspect, in addition, you can add your filter in front of or at back of the lens making it more useful in different situation. The one missing option that I found in the article is the Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 18-35mm f/3.5-4.5G ED – Surprisingly sharp, well controlled coma by f4.5 at 18mm, FX compatible, and about the same weight and price as the 20mm prime. From the moon and planets to distant nebulae and galaxies, a variety of astronomical subjects in the night sky are yours to be captured. If you want to capture a landscape’s foreground at night, this is one of the best options available. I certainly would. It isn't that you can't do it, the issue is more that you will start to see star trails very quickly with that length. This image, because it was shot in clear atmospheric conditions, allows the Milky Way to be seen. If the coma is objectionable in a particular shot, you can always stop down by 1/3 or 2/3 of a stop. Is purple and/or green fringing going to be a problem in astrophotography using the f/1.4 lenses? I’ve always been inspired by the beautiful night sky photos that I see online. This isn’t an issue for most photos at night, since you’ll have to focus manually regardless of the lens you use. Image Overlay technique was used to create this image in-camera: the moon was shot first (f/11, 1/50 sec. However, it’s not perfect. To see more of Deborah Sandidge's photography, visit her website at. This allowed the light to be more dimensional, wrapping around the trees. D4, 14-24mm f/2.8 lens, 15 sec., f/5.6, ISO 12,800, Matrix metering, manual exposure. David Kingham is a landscape photographer who focuses on the night sky. Which ever lens I buy, I’ll probably keep for later night sky photography. reduced vignetting). Some higher-end Nikon DSLR models incorporate a time release movie mode that takes care of processing the hundreds or thousands of individual exposures into a finished time lapse movie, right in the camera. Right now I’m trying to decide between the Samyang 10/2.8, 14/2.8 and 16/2 and the Irix 15/2.4. I’ve used the Nikon 20mm f/1.8 for nighttime photography for about a year, and I’ve found it to be an excellent performer. It has minimal vignetting and practically no coma, along with a slightly wider f/2.4 aperture that gives about an extra 1/3 stop of light in critical circumstances. It will work somewhat (take a look at the photo under that section for a guide to how its images will look). I got me a D3400 with a AF-P NIKKOR 18-55mm and 70-300mm lens and wondering about settings I should use for night sky and astrophotography with the lens I have. For certain images, that could be the deciding factor. Nikon’s FX cameras – and the full-frame cameras of other brands – are arguably the best tools on the market for nighttime landscape photography. Do you think a “Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8” be good to capture the Milky Way? Next up, your ISO. Although it doesn’t let in as much light as one of the 24mm f/1.4 lenses, it still lets you use very low ISOs at night. That doesn’t give you much of a foreground. The 24-megapixel Nikon D5600 is our favorite DSLR camera under $1,000, thanks to its excellent image quality and … This list doesn’t cover every lens made, and there certainly are some gaps in the lineup below. Turn ON the camera’s Long Exposure Noise Reduction feature. [Check your camera's manual to see if your model has this feature —editor] The interval timer controls the span of time between exposures and the total number of exposures made by the camera for an orderly recording of images over the timespan you want the time-lapse to cover. Nikon’s 14-24mm F2.8G has far better image quality, in spite of being a zoom instead of a prime lens. Sign up for Learn & Explore emails and receive inspiring, educational and all around interesting articles right in your inbox. Hi. At $950, it’s also not a cheap lens, especially considering that it is manual-focus only. Shoot NEF (RAW) so you can more easily make adjustments in post-production if needed. Optically, the Laowa just is not very good. There used to be just one option if you wanted a 24mm f/1.4 lens – Nikon’s own version. However, for nighttime photography, it would be far from my top choice. Other times she’ll use multiple exposure to expose for the moon and stars separately. Sure, other lenses have a wider aperture, but this one can render a sharp image from 1.16 meters (3.8 feet) to the stars in a single photo. I tried using the DX 35mm 1.8 wide open for a bit, and was never able to completely eliminate the color fringing. D2X, 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 lens, ISO 100, manual exposure, Matrix metering. I don’t do this for every photo, though; it’s all a balancing act. The Nikon D5600 lets you dial in shutter speeds of up to 30 seconds and has a Bulb mode as well for exposure times of practically any length, which is very good news if you are seriously interested in night photography. Shutter speeds ranged from 15 to 25 seconds. Nikon D5600 Cheat Sheet | Best Settings for the Nikon D5600 Is the Sigma sharper in addition to being faster or have you tested it? My photos have been displayed in galleries worldwide, including the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History and exhibitions in London, Malta, Siena, and Beijing. At 1100 grams, it’s even heavier than the Nikon, making it one of the heaviest ultra-wide lens for Nikon cameras on the market. Although the price and coma make this lens hard to recommend, I can see certain nighttime photographers buying it simply because of the incredibly wide angle. Even if you don’t have one of these lenses yourself, you should still go out and experiment. In terms of noise, you’re shooting a full-frame equivalent of a 28mm f/4 lens, which doesn’t really compete against other options out there. Since it was late at night and no one else had driven past me on this road for hours, I set up my tripod low in the middle of the road. Fast full frame wides are great for low light night photography but once you crop in your stars will bloat and enlarge and not look natural. I exposed the sky for about 35 seconds because I wanted to see the beginnings of some star movement to add interest in the sky. Not a bad lens by any means. Allow you to access and adjust the cameras full complement of settings. The Nikon feels cheap -weighs 2/3 less and is made in China. And, if you want to use filters, you’ll have to purchase a large and expensive holder, as well as bigger filters than normal, since the front element of this lens is pretty large. Hello Spencer I was reading your article, you stated for DX cameras “2.6. This lens weighs almost a kilogram (more than two pounds), which is about three times as heavy as the Nikon 20mm f/1.8. You’ll actually get relatively clean images; the main problem, as with the 35mm f/1.4 lenses, is depth of field. The Samyang is also $1600 less than the Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8’s retail price, as well as around half the weight. He uses Speedlights to paint with light, pressing the Flash button multiple times while the shutter is open during a long exposure, to "pop" light into the scene. Although it doesn’t quite match the noise performance of a full-frame camera, you’ll be able to capture fairly clean images of the night sky, which is all that really matters. In the shot of the Fishing Shack (photo 4 in the grouping above), she first photographed the moon, then the fishing shack, combining them in-camera using the Image Overlay function. 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